Velvet ropes controlling the line of patrons eager to discover Virgil Abloh’s newly opened Off-White store on Castiglione Street, a courtyard packed with fashion industry insiders having lunch at the Costes Hotel, and fans linger outside the Ritz hotel, hoping for a preview and Instagram photo of an A-List star: All signs point to Paris fully embracing a post-lockdown lifestyle, and luxury labels are playing a role essential.

For some fashion and jewelry houses, shows and events during the annual week of July of haute couture and fine jewelry presentations came together quickly once French President Emmanuel Macron announced the country would reopen in June to vaccinated travelers from outside the European Union. “We weren’t planning on doing anything special, but that all changed once we found out how much [non-E.U. editors and clients] wanted to be here, ”said a spokesperson for a designer.

Schiaparelli’s creative director, Daniel Roseberry, agreed when he greeted guests on Tuesday, July 6 at the Maison Place Vendôme workshop, where he oversaw a still life presentation from the fall-winter 2021 haute couture collection. on the theme of the matador he had launched the day before. . “It’s wonderful to see so many faces in person and not at Zoom meetings,” he joked, adding that the artful details of his latest haute couture outing, golden sculpted roses that formed the corset of a Hand-embroidered dress by artisans from Lesage, the house that dates back its work to the time of Elsa Schiaparelli, could not be better appreciated than by a visit in person.

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Schiaparelli fashion presentation
Laurie Brookins

Indeed, while a few designers continued this haute couture season with the virtual presentations that allowed them to present new collections throughout the pandemic, others seemed too eager to return to the energy of a fashion show. with a live audience – with precautions in place. During Dior’s presentation at the Rodin Museum, each guest had their temperature checked at the entrance, received hand sanitizer, and offered a mask if they weren’t already wearing one. Another concession to social distancing rules that have become de rigorous over the past 16 months: attendees were more than comfortably spaced, away from the sardine-like seats that were all too common on fashion shows before a global pandemic altered. our attitudes about sitting shoulder to shoulder.

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PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 05: Jennifer Lawrence attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall / Winter 2021/2022 fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 05, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kristy Sparow / Getty Images for Dior)
Photo by Kristy Sparow / Getty Images for Dior

Unlike recent seasons, with sparsely populated virtual presentations of high-powered global ambassadors sitting alone as models paraded, the stars were out this week in Paris. Jennifer Lawrence, Jessica Chastain, Monica Bellucci and Florence Pugh were among the attendees at Dior to see Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ruminations on texture and shape, while Chanel drew HalstonRebecca Dayan and Sofia Coppola and Margaret Qualley took to the Chanel catwalk as the bride in Virginie Viard’s pale pink satin gown, topped with a pillbox hat and a veil adorned with glitter. (Coppola and his brother, Roman, also co-directed a teaser video featuring Qualley for the house.)

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Margaret Qualley in the Chanel show.
Chanel

Salma Hayek and her husband, François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of the Kering Group, were at the forefront of the launch of Balenciaga’s first haute couture collection in 53 years. The Kering brand supervised by Demna Gvasalia presented its collection in the restored couture salon that Cristobal Balenciaga chaired from 1937 until his retirement in 1968. Gvasalia plays on the couture, proportions and volume of the collection, a mix The almost equal of menswear and womens designs were an instant hit, as were Philip Treacy’s graphic and sculpted hats, a perfect blend of chic simplicity and shameless excess.

The week also revealed that the power of the stars also influences fine jewelry, the unique designs that represent the ultimate in craftsmanship and a house’s DNA, all wrapped around some of the most popular diamonds and gemstones. most spectacular in the world. With stars like Dan Levy and Billy Porter sporting brooches on the red carpet in recent awards seasons, Boucheron has followed suit by showcasing brooches and rings on male models for the first time during his Place Vendôme presentation. Artistic Director Claire Choisne was inspired by the idea of ​​holograms for her aptly named Holographic collection, with pieces like floral brooches in holographic ceramic, titanium and white gold, one featuring a cushion-cut green tourmaline of 25.01 carats in its center, or a ring set with an Australian opal of 30.98 carats, surrounded by sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines, tsavorites and emeralds to play with the colors of the stone.

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Boucheron Chromatic Brooch
Boucheron

Chopard also used a black opal cabochon for a ring set with titanium and enhanced with yellow sapphires, part of a Red Carpet collection that was limited only because so many pieces had already made their way to the south of France to appear on the Croisette in Cannes. Film festival.

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Chopard ring with black opal cabochon.
Chopard

Piaget also played with the idea of ​​light seen through the lens of gemstones in pieces like the Magical Aurora necklace, which featured a 16.84-carat Colombian emerald, surrounded by a jet of diamonds and emeralds. resembling fireworks.

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Piaget necklace
Piaget

At Cartier, the Sharkara necklace displays a beautiful tonal effect with tourmalines and garnets in different shades of pink and orange.

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Sharkara Cartier necklace
Cartier

Messika, meanwhile, hosted his presentation at the Hôtel de Crillon, where pear-shaped yellow and white diamonds were the highlight in pieces like a single-ear hoop design that one can easily imagine. on Beyoncé at a future event.

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Messika Paris
Messika Paris

And at Van Cleef & Arpels, a celebration of the house’s iconic ballerina clips ranged from the first models introduced in the 1940s to a trio of new ballerinas, including a ruby ​​and diamond clip inspired by Proust: The intermittences of the Heart, the Roland Petit ballet premiered in 1974. Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the new pieces beyond the idea of ​​offering a beloved design to customers; the house is also celebrating its long-standing collaboration with contemporary dance companies, including the LA Dance Project, founded by Benjamin Millepied. Plans are underway for a variety of Van Cleef & Arpels sponsored productions that will run worldwide through 2022 – much like fashion’s enthusiastic return to glamorous designs presented to a live audience is another sign that the virtual is taking up more and more space. to sit in an audience to witness something that is done exquisitely, with a passion for craftsmanship in mind.

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Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels





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